woke up at 5 this morning. wide awake, no way i would fall back asleep. checked the wind forecasts and made some breakfast.
then i packed the car with my 5′10 fish and my wetsuit (so weird wearing a wetsuit after 2 months of surfing in boardies), and made the 60 minute drive south to Torö. the surf was on, 2 guys in the water, and the sun came out. its not like an indonesian reefbreak, but its something i’ve missed this winter, so i sessioned it for 4 hours. awesome.
unknown ripper on the righthander
now its 5 o clock in the afternoon and i could seriously go to bed, so jetlagged. gonna try to stay up for a few more hours…
see ya latah